Buenos Aires

Well that's it for touring this year....1500 kms behind us, fitter, a bit lighter, and that acomplishment bliss soaking in......spending some time in the big city of Buenos Aires before heading back.

BA is a great city ..... built on the banks of the Rio Plata by the spanish back in the 1600 it started out as a humid mosquito infested outpost and was almost abondoned due to yellow fevor outbreaks. But with help from the british and later the french to build docks, locks, dredges, trains to the country's interior, residential sites away from the river, it became one of the major ports on the east coast of south america and it used to rival Canada and the US in standards of living.

The archetecture of the city is its most dramatic feauture as there are no mountains or other geological highlights other than the muddy brown river nearby. There are literally thousands of ornate stone civic and residential buildings most built back around the late 1800s and early 1900s using french archectural style. All have grand entrances, lots of wrought iron, balonies, 15 foot high doors, arches, marble, etc. There are also thousands of statues and monuments which seens to be emblematic of most south american cities. The most interesting sculture (for lack of a better term) is the huge modern stainless steel tulip (see below) in one of the parks - the tulip opens and closes and turns following the sun as it moves across the sky. Like a real flower it barely opens at all on cloudy days and at night coloured lights on the inside of the flower shine out between the closed pedals.
















Took a walk over to the Plaza de mayo to see the Casa Rosada which is the government residence that used to be painted pink with bull's blood (now with home depot pink). This is where the Peron's greeted the thousands back in the heyday 40's when Argentina was experimenting with their social revolutioin.














Great city for tourists as well (if you like good coffee, good food, and good weather). Even found it manageable for a bit a cycling although I think your number would be up soon with the crazy drivers if you spent too much time on the roads here - 15 lanes of one way traffic on some of the city streets.

Go Steelers

Happy Steeler Fans watching the game on the big screen (with spanish language play by play).

Desert Ride to San Luis

I know this blog is called Andes Bike but this week maybe it should be Desert Bike. After studying maps and getting a bit restless in San Juan, legs weary for the last mountain segment, we headed east away from the Andes towards the Central Sierra mountains in the provinces of Cordoba and San Luis on routes 20 and 147.

Day 1 out of San Juan - We knew we would be fighting a head wind most of the way but didn't think it would be too tough as it had been quite calm for several days but as bad luck would have it woke up to curtains blowing wildly in the open windows of my hotel room on the morning of the starting day - winds blowing directly from the east where we were headed. Oh well it was sunny and warm anyway. Actually the first part of the ride was nice peddling through the vineyards of San Juan province, passing endless vineyards growing Muscat grapes for Cinzano's vermouth distillery (located in the city). The vineyards in that area are all sheltered by big cottonwood windbreaks making the ride easier but also were an indicator of the perennial tortuous winds that come in off of the desert.

Stopped for a nice lunch of sliced meat and cheese on fresh bread and watched the one and only train that I have ever seen working pass by - only 8 cars and the bright yellow locomotive of the Alliance Latino Logistica?. By early afternoon we were past all civilization well into the desert heads down pedaling into the hot wind - felt like riding uphill back in the mountains. We were both wondering why the hell we were doing this. The only civilization out here was a couple of dying government sponsored agriculture projects consisting of hundreds of acres of vineyards and olive groves that were in really poor shape. Wondering if the water out here was too salty or if it was just too hot for anyone to care. Dead cattle by the road did not give us a reasuring feeling.

Finally made it to our destination, the little oasis of Encon, by early evening. Just a rough truck stop with a gas station, a police check point (more bureaucracy), a little restaurant, and cold BEER. Camped just out of town in the prickly desert in a storm of flying bugs. Safe and protected in out tents but were kept up all night by noisy trucks passing by and nosy (maybe lonely) farrel horses walking by looking at us in the night.

Day 2 Encon to San Antonio - Mornings come early in the desert and the tents get hot about 5 minutes after the sun comes up .... no chance to sleep in even if the muscles hurt. But the good thing is that most of the bugs are gone when it gets hot. Checked our shoes for scorpions, packed up camp, and made that oh so important pot of Starbucks coffee (yep still have a bit left).

Another tough morning riding into the wind but scenery was getting better as the San Juan river (brown and shallow as it is) flowed along side of the road for most of the day creating this broad green swath through the otherwise brown desert. By mid day the river had fanned out to form a huge marsh attracting birds, wild horses, and foxes (zorros). There was no lake or continuing stream, the thirsty land just sucked up the river here and that was the end - I guess it is similar to the famous Etosha (sp?) pans in Africa where rivers just end in Botswana's northern deserts attracting thousands of animals.

After riding up and into the wind gradually gaining about 400 meters we finally came to the fork in the road that would take us south to San Luis and best of all maybe a bit of a tail wind. The scenery improved too as we approached the Quihadas national park http://welcomeargentina.com/paseos/parque_las_quijadas/index_i.html with its orange sandstone cliffs and rugged peaks. Camped just past San Antonio in another pricky site but further from the road and sheltered by some Acacia trees. Watched satellites cross the moonless sky and marveled at the southern cross through the mesh window of my tent before crashing to sleep.

Day 3 San Antonio to San Luis - Nothin like a tailwind to lift your spirits. Nothin like a tailwind and down hill to make for a great day....we rode for 3 or 4 hours with only a couple of quick stops (to fix my flat tires) and finally stopped for lunch at around 2pm. Well all good things must come to an end, started the 30 km hill into San Luis after lunch but tailwind made it bearable and the thought of refreshments in a big town was the carrot we needed. Got into San Luis about 4 pm, nice little town of about 100,000. Quiet provincial capital, some small factories, nice old buildings, and friendly people. 300 kms behind us (1500 total so far in the trip) and time for a break.

Bike Repairs

The desert in the west of Argentina is beautiful and as the name suggests does not get much rain due to the shadow effect of the high Andean peaks. The only reason that there is any population and agriculture around here is beacuse dams have been built on the few streams that run down the eastern slopes of the mountains to catch the spring and summer run-off and irrigation canals direct the water to vinyards, olive grooves, and vegitable farms ( I don´t know where the veggies go cause we sure don´t see much of them). But get more than 50 kms from these irrigated areas and it turns to arid scrub. From a distance the green scrub can look soft and pretend to offer shade but up close prickels and thorns are everywhere, even on the bugs.

Camping in the desert sure takes its toll on the old bike and other camping equipment. I have had no less than 15 flat tires (Al bout 10 flats) and I still have some slow leaks that I cannot find. Just moving onto the shoulder of the road puts you in jeopardy of a flat cause all of the little scrub plants have thorns. Worse yet pushed my bike into the brush to set up camp cost me 3 flats and a nasty thorn through the sole of my sandals. Even got a puncture in my water bladder for my camel back.






I trid to get some new tubes for my tires in San Luis (last town we were in ) but one bike shop was closed for 2 weeks for summer vacation (what kinda bike shop closes in the summer, why not take a month off in the winter when you wouldn´t loose sales) and the only other bike shop in town was not surprisingly out of inner tubes and could not get any more until next week because the factory that makes bike inner tubes was on vacation for the month of January (some crazy kinda commerce in this country). Fortunately I have lots of patches - actually these new kinda patches that we brought from Canada are great, no glue needed, you just sand the area of the puncture and apply the pre-sticky patch.

Mishmash of Photos

Dogs For Kailani

Here you go Kailani, here are some of the dogs that I have met down here in Argentina. The friendliest one was the black pit bull tied up in front of the tatoo parlour in San Luis.

Costa Havin Fun

So one visitor to my blog was asking how much it costs to travel around down here- expenses for a visitor- well the answer to that is very subjective. On bikes as you can guess it can be very cheap as many nights are spent camping out in the bush so not much is spent in the way of hotels, and meals when riding between towns are simple consisting of either deli meat sandwiches or pasta and canned fish cooke don the old camp stove. Yesterday had a can of corned beef (ya the kind with the key to open it) mixed with itialian spices and Chimichirri sauce then spread on crackers like a pate´. My dog would have loved it. Met other travelers also spending a lot of time hiking in national parks living quite cheaply.

But here's a run down of costs that most tourists can expect in Canadian Dollars (keep in mind Argentina is experiencing 12% per anum inflation).

A three star hotel in Buenos Aries will cost about $60 - 80 per night while elsewhere in the country about $25 - 30 which gets you a clean room, a TV often with english speaking movies, sometimes a pool, and always a good breakfast.

Lunch such as a steak sandwich with cheese egg tomatoes fries (the call it a Lomito) is $3 - $5 including a drink.

A good espresso coffee served in china with acompanying soda water and cookies (the traditional way) costs about 75 cents to a dollar.

A great steak dinner for 2 (new york cut) with bread, olives, tomato and onion salad, mashed potatoes, a good bottle of local wine, soda water (no greens - havent seen em for a while) will set you back no more than $20 ($10 per person). You could spend maybe another$10 if you bought a top rate reserva wine.

The accurate indicator of expenses is beer .... here it is a huge bargun. A 1 litre bottle of Quilmes or Andes beer (thats the common size down here) sets you back about $1 from a sore and $1.5 from a restaurant.

Airfares are also reasonable but this is where you start to enter the two tier pricing system. For some idolistisic reason the government has mandated that only Argentine residents can get preferred rates for domestic air travel even on privately owned airlines such as Lan Argentina. One oway flights to most cities in the north and middle of the country cost a visitor about $90 (San Luis) to $120 (Mendoza and Iguazu Falls). To fly to Ushuaia at the bottom of the world costs about $200.

Electronoics are another story, wow pricey. My cheap little digital camera bought at home for about $290 is over $600 here even at a Carrfore (french version of Walmart) store. Flash memory cards, MP3 players, etc., are over twice as expensive.

We´re told that cars are also expensive except for the FIATs (Fix It Again Tonys) and Boxey Renaults that are built here.

The Argentine government just announced a 12 month price freeze on beef so that should keep most people here happy!!!!

Mendoza to Uspallata

This is one of tens of thousands of old Ford Falcons still rollin the roads down here......this is in better shape than most...seen a few that appear to be held together by only by duct tape.

Well, the weather was looking grim in Catamarca and we were told that it would get more rainy and more tropical if we headed north towards Bolivia (they grow sugar cane north of here) so we tore down the bikes and bussed it back to Mendoza (Sun Central - think a hotter Osoyoos in the summer). So it was 9 hours jammed in a hot bus retracing much of our route north, listening to all my MP3 music twice, all of my BBC podcasts, finishing my book, starting a new book, and sleeping, we finally arrived in Mendoza at 10 pm. Nice to be back to home base but what a change from before New Year when we were here last ... the city was packed with tourists, mostly Argentines from BA. Took 2 hrs just to find a place to stay. But never fear missing a meal the restaurants, which don't open until 9pm, don't close until 1am weekdays and 2am weekends - more on their crazy eating habits later.

Next day back on the bikes, see we read that the mountain roads west of Mendoza were spectacular so we set off for the montain town of Uspallata (oos pah ja ta) and then north into the Caligata Valley in the province of San Juan.

First day was pretty casual as we traveled south of town to Lujuan de Cuyo to meet up with the roads heading west. It was easy pedalling anlong flat roads through sunny vinyards, garlic fields, stopping at fruit stands (and trucks), and admireing the snow capped andes in the distance.

Day 2 was the exact opposite; a greuling climb into a narrow valley, along an equally narrow road, along a rushing chocolate brown river. The road leads 200 kms up the valley towards Acanguaga the America´s highest mountain at 21,000ft and then into Chile but we turn off short of the border and are to head north. The hills along this road were the steepest encountered so far on the trip and as the day progressed, the truck and bus traffic increased making it pretty dicey at some narrow sections with 18 wheelers on one side, a 12" wide shoulder to ride on, and steep drop offs to the river on the other side. Fortunately there is a phenominon here called the Siesta that mysteriuosly happens between the hours of 1pm and 6 pm every day - the whole country gets kinda sleepy, stores and offices close down, policia disapear, and best of all most trucks pull over for a nap. It was a nice break from the traffic but as skys darkened above in early afternoon more excitement - this time bolts of lightning. I´m thinking that way down in this valley we are not likely targets but you sure get second thoughts as bolts crack into the hills directly above you ringing your ears. Look ahead, more adventure, 4 consecutive tunnels, and then more in the distance. Good places to hide from the lightning, but room only enough for 2 passing vehicles. A biker meeting passing vehicles in one of these tunnels would be in big trouble. We dug out or halogen head lamps, listened for vehicle noice, peered as far up and down the road as possible for vehicles as we could and picked just the right time to make it through....or at least you think you called it right untill inside the dark tunnel, heart beating, pedaling as fast as you can you wonder if you can hear vehicles comeing from behind.........whew made it through but what about the next 5 ahead. Well, we must have called it right each time but don't need that kind of excitement any more. 100kms later and a cruel final 10 kms uphill into the wind we made it to Uspallata to see the sun setting behind the Andes and man did that first beer taste good.

Day 3.....Well as you can see by this photo of Al's back wheel, legs were not the only thing suffering from fatigue. This spoke on Al's rear wheel pulled out along with a good sized chunck of the wheel metal...now it makes a whistle like my first old junker car when rolling down the hill - easy to hear Al racing up behind me.

We found a bike shop in Uspallata but the bike mechanic did not have any parts and just said "no problema" and cut off the old spoke. Told us to carry on as he did not think the wheel would colapse. Well contrary to our better judgements we continued on the next day over a 2200 meter (7000ft) dirt road pass. Turns out the wheel did OK and was the least of our worries. After 4 hours of climbing at early afternoon we had only covered about 25 kms (75 to go) and the previoulsy blue skys started to darken - no more towering mountain peaks only dark skies then lightning bolts, closer and closer. We were near the top of the pass, no protection, nowhere to hide and cracks of lightning everywhere. No need to count the seconds between the light and the sound they were dam close. Felt like were were under sniper fire without any cover. Then I'm thinking basic electricity...here I am with metal cleated bike shoes connected to my metal bike, tallest objects in the area. So we jumped off our bikes, changed shoes to runners, found a shallow ditch, and sat crouched on the balls of our feet for 45 minutes trying to minimize earth contact waiting to either get hit or survive. Well after that it was all easy - made it to the top and hour later skirted a few more storms, and ended up camping on this dry lake bed on the north side of the pass. Couldn't help riding around the perfectly smooth flat dirt lake a few times before setting up our tents. Heard later from locals that people sail on the lake with wheeled carts and high tech wheeled "yachts". Above the dry lake bed were 3 or 4 observatories high on the overlooking hills....saw why they were there when the sun went down as the night sky was unbelievable.

The next morning a few more bike repairs (Al's front rack collapsed - carrying too much water, and I had yet another flat from thorns) and we were on our way across the dry lake to the little town of Barreal.

Argentine Music

Music is such an important part of Argentine society and this time of year with much of Argentina on Vacation and the "gente" of Good Air (Buenos Aires) traveling throughout the country (by any means possible) every town and city is holding some kind of music festival. The folky guitar and traditional music festivals are really good, great ballads and traditional songs ... but spare me the horrific Argentine Rock and or Drum festivals (bad, very bad, think Argentine Idol).

Here is a list of recommended artists from an Argentine music buff, some Argentine and some Spanish (haven't checked them out yet myself but told that they can be found on emule.com http://www.emule-project.net/):

Gustavo Santaolallia

Enrique Bunbury
Jouquin Sabina
Patricio Rey Y Sus Redonditos De Ricota
La Renga
Andres Calamaro
Ratones Paranoicos
Attaque 77

Another Day in Catamarca

Warm rain all day in the lovely northern city of Catamarca and we took the day off to clean stinky clothes and rest a bit. The city is old and the people appear quite poor but it is a beautiful place with a pleasant treed town square surrounded by colonial buildings the most promonent of which is the "creamy marinara sauce" coloured domed basilica where pilgrims come from all over the country to worship.....pictures later.

All of these northern cities and towns along the way appear to be built around the old narrow gage railway which we are told has been defunct for more than 20 years. Most of the tracks are still visible but heavily overgrown, quaint bridges still in tact, and most notably the old stations are all still standing vancant and in varios degrees of delapidation. Passed this little sad looking train town in the high desert north of La Rioja - weeds blowing down the dusty steets and dirty kids playing on the tracks. The town looks to have been a bustling place when the trains ran with important looking passanger and cargo buildigs but now has no soul. The big city stations such as in Mendoza and Catamarca are quite ornate with rusting but grande iron facades, peeling murals, lifting marble tiled platforms. I don´t know why people or businesses have not taken over these stations and at lest made them into housing, offices or stores...maybe there is still a pipe dream the the trains will roll again.

San Fernando de Valle de Catamarca - 900 kms

I'm reading Paul Thereau's Dark Star Safari while on this trip - it's been sitting on my night table for a year and I finally have time to read it (recounts this cranky traveler's trip through Africa). Although the setting is different its still fun to relate to anothe travelers complaints about heat, smelly people, diareha, beaurocracy, and great unexpected encounters with people like this group in the photo here. They are 3 generations of a poorer Porteño (residents of BA) family on a 2 week driving holiday all bunched into a ford pickup decked out with a homemade canopy complete with sleeping bunks and trailing a barbeque kitchen. They found us sitting below a tree during a break in our ride a few days ago. They were so hapy to tell us about their trip and what fun they were having. Asked about our bikes, and all the dodads such as cycle computors, altimeter, 2 way radios, etc. How do we stand the heat? Is there always snow in Canada?. Hugs and kisses from all of them as they leave and an invitation to have dinner with them when we return to BA.

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Never trust a map - at least not in this country. So many maps are wrong (German traveler's biggest gripe) but it is particulary annoying for a cyclist - especially when distances and understated - where the heck is that town as you ride further and further into the dusk. Well trusting as we are we followed a nice thick solid red road (indicating major highway) on the map a few days ago from Antiagasto crossing a mountain pass to Chumbicha in the La Rioja province. Rode 6 hours east to the start of the pass to find a Passar Prohibido - El Camino Cerrado sign. Oh what now, well we couldn't turn around this time in the day so over the dirt berm blocking the road and carry on up the closed highway. Up, into the wind, winding through switchbacks and low passing clouds, and cardon & prickly pear cactus covered hills we made it to the pass summit 2 hours later wondering if the road would continue through as it was steadilly deteriorating. We really didn't want to have to turn around and take another road to Catamarca which would add 130 more kms. As we continued the road turned to a goat path, clouds started turning to mist then rain, and dirt to mud - who made this map? no cars let alone any trucks could not have made it across this road in the past 20 years looking at the current condition. Finally came upon a closed gate that we squeezed by then steady improvement and all of the sudden 2 lane shouldered Superhighyway covered in cow poop. Well it was another stinky 20 kms of downhill in the rain with wet cow poop sraying me in the face off my tire until we made it to the bottom of the pass. Set up camp in the bush, brushed my teeth, and swore I would get better fenders inthe next town!

Anillaco - 750 KMS

The high valley west of La Rioja is covered with thousands of acres of olive trees giving it a dull green hue as you descend into it - a bit more interesting this particular morning as massive thunderstorms loom in the western hills and patches of rain make curtains across the valley.

Pedaled downa side road into this little town called Anillaco around lunch time and were greeted by a truck load of grinning pudgy Policia signaling us to come with them down another side road to the Police station. No no come around back the said in Castillano, so we fllowed dutifully wonering what trouble we were in. Although they wanted to see our documentos, questioned us about drugs (le gusta drugos? marijuana?), I´m sure they were just bored and saw this as some way of justifying their existance. After admiring Al´s clipless bike shoes & pedals and my altimeter watch (how much money? is alwasy the question) they felt we were respectable enough to continue on have have lunch in their little town. Only after reading the guide book at lunch did it start to make sense - this is the home town of former presedent Carlos Menem ( actually a Sirian imigrant) who lives in the nearby Casa Rosada and this oversized police force must be looking after his domain. Also later saw the runway in the desert the guide book says is big enough to land 747´s and the huge (but perpetually empty) high end hotel.